The weather forecast for Thursday, August 15 in Wrangell was for showers. Well, it rained all day, making our final preparations for leaving the boat slightly difficult. We wanted to keep things as dry as possible before closing it all up. We did manage to get it all done, and drove downtown to run a few errands there. I then dropped Jean off at the motel. I believe I once referred to it as the nicest or fanciest motel in town, but it is actually the only motel in town. She settled into a comfy chair in the lobby with our luggage, ordered a latte, and opened the iPad while I went off to do the real work.
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| Rover Ready for Winter, Wrangell, AK |
I stashed Schooner’s collapsible dog kennel at the ferry terminal, and then drove a mile out to the airport to drop off the car. The car rental office opened a bit later than I anticipated, but eventually that was all sorted out. Schooner and I then walked back to town, as the rain had stopped by then.
We then had dinner at the motel restaurant, which was much better than expected, and killed some more time finishing our wine and ordering dessert. We then collected Schooner from the bushes outside, and carried our luggage the block or two to the ferry. We tried to pack lightly, but things are heavier than we had hoped.
After the ferry arrived, we got Schooner settled in his kennel down on the car deck, as required. They had us put him in a sheltered area where the workers keep their stuff, which worked out well. He gave one mournful wail as we left, but seemed ok.
The sunlight was disappearing, and the quarter moon was peeking from behind the broken clouds as the ferry left for Petersburg. Soon all of the passengers were off doing other things, while Jean and I sat alone in the forward observation lounge watching and discussing the slow procession of blinking white lights against the dim shapes of the land. We, of course had sailed this route over a month ago in daylight, and we now were trying to remember the locations of the lights, and what that told us about the progress of the ferry. I’m certain that others thought we were insane, and perhaps we are.
After an hour and a half we turned into Wrangell Narrows, and the real excitement began. There were actually a half dozen other passengers who came to share the view with us. You may recall that this shallow, tortuous route has the highest concentration of navigation aids of any place in the United States. It is sometimes called “Christmas Tree Lane,” and as we proceeded, the number of red and green lights multiplied, mixed in with yellow range lights. The goal was to keep the red lights to starboard and the greens to port. At times there were a dozen lights visible at once, all blinking at different frequencies. In the dark you could not tell which lights were close and which farther away, and due to the curves, the reds and greens were all mixed together. It was really a frightening view, knowing that if they made one mistake we would be impaled on a rock.
Of course they had more than just the lights to help them. I’m sure they had their chart plotter and their radar running, they were probably timing each leg with a stopwatch, and from time to time they would turn on a bright spotlight to see an unlighted buoy or to allow the numbers on lights to be confirmed. When we came through on our boat, we were prepared to move over to the side of the channel if a ferry appeared. Tonight it was clear that we would have to completely leave the channel, not just move over. The ferry just managed to squeeze between the buoys. We encountered one fishing boat headed in the opposite direction, and the passing was a very close event. Of course the fishing boat was not visible at all, just its running lights. When we go through here next year, we will first check out the ferry schedule, so there won’t be any surprises for us.
We took Schooner ashore when we reached Petersburg, and it is hard to imagine a happier dog when he left his kennel. After half an hour he was back, and we headed to bed at 1:30 AM. We had splurged and reserved a cabin. I think they actually call it a stateroom, but that seems a bit strong. I think that we got something that would have appalled the passengers on the Holland America cruise ships, but it was a bit better than a navy enlisted man. We had bunk beds, a chair, a hanging closet, a toilet, sink and shower. The entire room was painted yellow/beige, and was unencumbered with anything that might be considered decorative. It could easily be cleaned with a hose. It certainly was an improvement over the alternative of spending the night in a reclining chair. Last year we had slept on the floor on an overnight ferry ride from Bella Coola, BC, and this was a considerable improvement over that experience.
Shortly thereafter the iPod was insistently telling me that it was 5 AM, and we were shortly due to dock at Kake. I offered to do the dog break alone, and Jean agreed with what I considered unseemly haste. I went ashore with a woman with two other dogs, and we walked over to a yard full of shipping containers where they could all be off leash and run around playing together. Back to bed at 6:00, and we didn’t awaken until after 9:00.
Looking outside, we recognized the Sumdum Glacier in Stephens Passage, and again enjoyed watching the world go by, remembering the various incidents that had occurred when we sailed this route earlier in the summer.
There were a large number of foreign tourists on the ferry; they probably outnumbered the Americans. We realized that our language experience is highly localized to Western Europe for the most part. The most common languages we heard were perhaps Russian and Hebrew, though I certainly will not claim to be able to distinguish Russian from Bulgarian, Polish or a whole host of similar languages. We are so used to foreign tourism being dominated by Germans, that it was a bit of a surprise.
Arriving at the terminal in Juneau (actually Auke Bay), we disembarked with our happy dog, and called the motel to come pick us up. Well, that wasn’t so easy, as the driver was not around, and after an hour a taxi finally arrived for us. We shared the taxi with a couple who insisted they were from Los Angeles, though he had a New York accent you could cut with a knife, and was wheeling and dealing with everyone he met, trying to get a better deal.
Our motel was in the center of the suburban portion of Juneau, which could have been anywhere in the US or Canada. We walked down the block to a Thai place for a good dinner. They were closing as we left, and sent us off with a bag full of leftover food. Of course we had no way to keep it, so we gave it to the motel clerk and shuttle driver for a midnight snack. The night was filled with the unfamiliar sounds of urban noises.
We caught the early morning shuttle to the ferry, and spent the morning sailing to Haines, eating breakfast along the way. It was a cloudy day, but even so, Lynn Canal was spectacular with mountains and glaciers. Travelling by ferry is certainly a relaxed and pleasant way to get around; especially when contrasted to airplanes.
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| Loaded VW Van, Chilkat State Park, AK |
We were headed to Haines to meet our daughter, who had spent the summer working in McCarthy, and had our VW Eurovan with her.
We made an error in reading the schedule, and arrived in Haines two hours before Melissa expected us. She was caught unawares, and though she came to the terminal to get us, she was not nearly ready. The primary problem was that she had not yet mailed off her bicycle. In fact, the van contained not only her bike, but also the box for it, which allowed room for one more passenger, but not two passengers and another dog. So, I rode off with her to help with the bicycle, while Jean and Schooner amused themselves at the ferry terminal, which is about 5 miles from town. With help from the local bike shop, we got the bike boxed, but it turned out to be 6 inches too large for the post office to accept. We gave up, returned for Jean and Schooner (now barely possible with the bike in a box), and went for a relaxing late lunch.
Haines is a wonderful place to visit. It gets very little cruise ship traffic. In fact it gets only one ship a week; a Holland-America ship visits on Wednesdays. These ships are all named things like Amsterdam. Zuiderdam, Oosterdam, etc. The locals call these “damn Wednesdays.” At any rate, the result is that it is a fairly normal town of 2 or 3 thousand people. “Fairly normal” applies to the businesses, schools, etc. It does not apply to the scenery, which is stunning. It sits on the water, looking across at jagged mountains and glaciers. If you turn and look inland what you see are jagged mountains and glaciers.
We have found that the public radio in Alaska is really excellent, and Haines is no exception. Each small town has its own station, run mostly by volunteers, but is also connected to the Alaska state radio network and to NPR. The result is a wide variety of programs with a wonderful focus on local affairs and events. A favorite public service notice for me was the one asking people to not kill polar bears. It assured us that there are other, non-lethal ways to deal with problem bears. Apparently Alaska provides the training grounds for a surprisingly large number of NPR personnel.
After lunch we spent some time at the local brewery, chatting with the brewmaster/owner/bartender, and sampling his wares. He makes a popular brew that includes green tips of spruce trees, but this was not among our favorites. In a rather odd situation, the brewery is located in the set for the movie White Fang, which was filmed here in the early 1990’s.
We spent the night camped in Chilkat State Park, south of town. It has a spectacular setting on the salt water estuary of the Chilkat River, with huge waterfalls pouring out of glaciers across the way. The campground was packed with cars from The Yukon. It turns out to be a three day weekend there – Discovery Days, commemorating the discovery of gold in Dawson that started the Klondike gold rush.
The next day we went down to a picnic shelter at the beach, and constructed a new cardboard box, so that Melissa could mail her bike in two legal-sized parcels. There was a family from Whitehorse there with their small children, who had a wonderful time playing with our dogs and helping Melissa assemble the boxes. We spent the rest of the day having a leisurely lunch (a generous way of saying poor service), and driving out to Chilkoot Lake to look for bears. We found one brown bear in the river chowing down on salmon.
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| Jeanie & Melissa Aboard Ferry to Skagway, AK, Aug 2013 |
Monday we had breakfast at the bakery, and got the bike into the mail. We then decided, more or less on the spur of the moment, to take the ferry to Skagway. It is only a one hour trip, and cuts almost a hundred miles off of the drive to Whitehorse. It is also fun. We sat out on the sun deck, watching the mountains and the passengers. The latter were of considerably more interest. This is our third visit to Skagway, and it was the usual cruise ship zoo. There were five ships there when we arrived, and the main street was aswarm with passengers buying jewelry. We parked, walked around, and had some coffee.
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| Skagway, AK |
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| Skagway, AK from Dyea Rd |
We drove over to the site of Dyea, and camped at the National Park Service campground there. Dyea was the competitor with Skagway for Klondike business, and was at the base of the famous Chilkoot Pass. If you don’t know about this, you should do an internet search and find some photos of the gold seekers climbing the pass. When they completed the railroad to Skagway, Dyea evaporated, and there is virtually no trace of it left. The campground was mostly empty, and we walked along the river past partially eaten salmon without any bear excitement. It was very windy, and I couldn’t help noticing the yellow cottonwood leaves blowing around on the ground. It may be August 19th, but fall is in the air.
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| Bennett Lake, Carcross, YT |
Tuesday we began the day with a short hike up the beginning of the Chilkoot Pass trail. We didn't go very far, but it was a fun start to the day. We then drove up over White Pass into Canada. I’m sure you’re tired of hearing about the spectacular scenery, but I’m afraid it is. There are some very large lakes up in the mountains here, and the wind was churning the water into whitecaps and large waves. We stopped at the small village of Carcross, and had lunch in the bakery there. Since we were here last year they have built half a dozen new buildings full of tourist shops. They are all located next to the parking lot where the cruise ship passengers disembark from the train to board buses for the ride back to Skagway. I rather suspect that all of the new shops are owned by the cruise ship lines.
We then drove on into Whitehorse. This is the capital of the Yukon Territory, and contains two-thirds of the entire population. It is not a frontier settlement, but rather a prosperous government center, with good restaurants, stores selling upper end outdoor gear, and trendy shops. Generally we try to camp at national or provincial parks, but here we checked into an RV park. It is close to the airport, provides hot showers, internet access, laundry, and generally all the services we needed to get Melissa off on the plane, and us off on our drive home. We are packed in cheek by jowl with other campers, which is not the best situation for the dogs, but it’s ok.
Logging onto the internet, Melissa discovered a problem with her airline reservations, and several stressful hours were spent trying to come up with a viable alternative. To help relieve the stress, we went downtown and had an excellent dinner at a funky restaurant.
In the morning we took Melissa to the airport for her early morning flight, and then returned to the RV park with her dog Toucan. We completely emptied the van, and repacked it. Melissa and Lauren, of course, had arranged things to suit their lives, so we rearranged it back to a more logical setup! We also have quite a bit of Melissa’s stuff that she couldn’t take with her on the plane, including small items such as her guitar. There’s not that much extra room in a VW van, but we eventually got it arranged so it should work pretty easily for us.
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| SS Klondike, Whitehorse, YT |
Back at camp we talked with a couple of doctors from Juneau who were here canoeing. Remember the terrible wind on the lakes we saw the other day? Well, they were out there in an open canoe with their dog. They swamped and had to spend the night ashore without any camping equipment. They clearly got into this over their heads, and were scaling back their plans for the rest of the trip.
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| VW at John's Auto Repair, Whitehorse, YT |
Thursday, I dropped Jean downtown, and drove out to a mechanic’s shop to have the rear brakes replaced. It is way out of town in the country, run by a young man and his wife, and they were wonderful. I found this place looking at recommendations on the internet, and could not have been happier. He fit us in almost immediately, had the parts flown in from Vancouver, and charged us a fair rate. His wife made me a pot of excellent coffee and provided some pastry while I waited.
I chatted with another couple there having brakes installed. They were driving an unusual Land Rover RV that I had never seen before. They are Swiss, and shipped the car from Hamburg to Buenos Aires last year. They have spent two years driving it from Argentina to the Yukon. They said the people in Columbia were wonderful, and they had no troubles at all.
There was even some excitement while I waited. A friend came by with a new truck that he had just picked up. It was huge, bright red with white stripes, and had a V-10, 550 hp engine. The two guys jumped in to take a test spin. He drove out to the highway, floored it, spun out of control and smashed into a light post. Fortunately no one was hurt, but the truck was a real mess. I guess there must be a learning curve to driving a vehicle like that.
Back downtown, we walked the dogs along the attractive park on the Yukon River, had lunch in an organic bakery, and generally enjoyed the yuppified Whitehorse.
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| Yukon River from Trail, Wolf Creek Campground, YT |
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| Atlin Lake, BC |
Friday we finally headed south, though we didn’t make much progress toward home. We drove back to Carcross, where we bought a large cinnamon roll for later consumption, thinking there wouldn’t be many more bakeries for a bit. We then drove south to the town of Atlin, which is actually in British Columbia. It is at the end of a sixty mile dead end road, much of which is gravel. It was originally a gold rush town, and in the early 20th century became a tourist spot. Tourists would take a ship from Seattle to Skagway, take the train to Carcross, then a paddle wheel steamer across Tagish Lake, a two-mile train trip to Atlin Lake, and another paddle wheel steamer to Atlin. Needless to say these folks had a lot of money to spend.
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| Campground Outhouse, Atlin, BC |
Atlin now has about 500 people, and is pretty interesting. We camped in the town campground, which was immaculately maintained by volunteers. No electricity or anything like that. Picturesque log cabin outhouses. A sign says if you need water you can get it at a good spring a mile down the road. Payment is on the honor system, and you just give the money to someone in town – either a shop owner or someone at the volunteer museum. We gave it to a lady at a community art gallery.
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| Pearl Ave, Atlin, BC |
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| Shop in Atlin, BC |
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| Bench, Atlin, BC |
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| SS Tarahne, Atlin, BC |
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| Atlin, BC |
We started Saturday by driving north back to the Yukon, and then east on the Alaska Highway. We saw no vehicles at all for the first 45 minutes, and the second one appeared 30 minutes later. It was a rainy day, so we did a lot of driving, stopping only to get gas and lunch. Up here we drive on the top half of our tank. Towns are hundreds of miles apart, and the roadhouses in between are unpredictable. Roadhouses are an old institution up here. They are places along the road that provide fuel, a restaurant and motel rooms. They may also provide tourist services such as fishing guides. They serve the roles that small towns would in the rest of the country, but up here there aren’t many towns. Many of the roadhouses are closed either permanently or for the season. Yes, we stopped to have lunch at a roadhouse to find the café closed for the season. This is August, and the season is over.
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| Wood Buffalo Along Liard River, BC |
South of Watson Lake we encountered quite a few wood bison along the road. Some were alone, and there was one herd of about 30. They apparently like the road since it has good grass, is easy walking, and provides good vision of predators. Of course they haven’t yet figured out that automobiles are predators, and there are a multitude of signs warning you about bison in the road.
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| Liard River Hot Springs, BC |
After a long day of driving, we pulled into Liard Hot Springs Provincial Park in northeastern British Columbia. Fortunately we had passed a truck camper a few miles back, because we got the last campsite. This turns out to be a popular spot, for good reason – the hot springs. You walk several hundred yards on a boardwalk to the springs. There they have built changing rooms, a deck, and stairs going down into a large pool of crystal clear hot water with a clean gravel bottom. They have also built a sitting ledge along one side, while the other side is natural vegetation. The water temperature ranges from warm to scalding, depending upon where you are, and how far from the major spring.
There was some excitement before dinner, when a black bear cub ran through the campsite next to us. We didn’t see the mom, but knew she had to be close. The neighbors were panicked, but we, of course, pooh-poohed it, since after all, they were only black bears – who’s afraid of black bears? We sat down at the picnic table, and ate our dinner. The ranger arrived after a bit with bear spray and gun, and managed to chase them away.
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| Muncho Lake, BC |
Sunday morning we ate, packed up the car and walked down in the cold morning air to soak in the hot springs for an hour. Talked with three old fat guys from Idaho who were headed off to Alaska to hunt moose in pickup trucks fitted with tractor tires. We then continued our drive, traveling relatively slowly as we wound our way around and over the main range of the Rocky Mountains. It was very pretty, though not as spectacular as the coastal mountains. We stopped for lunch at a lake near a high pass, and were amazed at how cold the air was. We thankfully ate our lunch inside our van, letting the dogs enjoy the cold lake water on their own.
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| Muncho Lake Prov Park, BC |
Dropping down out of the mountains we arrived in Fort Nelson, the largest place by far since Whitehorse. It has a population of 6,000. It was drizzling and really cold, so we called it a day and got a site at an RV park in town. This provided electricity to run our heater, and a convenient restaurant to avoid cooking outside. We enjoyed both, though the night was noisy with nearby traffic.
Just before leaving Monday morning, I tried to tighten a loose bolt on the VW pop-up top, and managed to break it. That meant that the top couldn’t be lowered (to be more accurate, it could be lowered, but then could not be raised again). So I walked downtown to find a replacement, and it only took two trips to get it right. The friendly guy at the store gave me the bolt and nut for free, and didn’t bat an eye when I returned to complain that it was the wrong size.
We drove around town for a bit trying to find a coffee shop that was carefully camouflaged as a jewelry store, and got off to a surprisingly late start considering that we were up at 6:00. We drove most of the day through boreal forest, with occasional views of mountains off to the west. There were no towns to speak of, but a surprising amount of traffic.
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| Schooner & Toucan in Eurovan, Aug 2013 |
The area between Fort Nelson and Fort St John produces a lot of natural gas, and it was a very busy place. There were roads headed off into the forest every half mile or so. Some were labeled, most were not. They went off to drill sites, compressor stations, and various mysterious things involved in the business of gas extraction. A number of them warned you to stay out due to poisonous hydrogen sulfide gas. There were countless pickup trucks driving about, and larger trucks carrying oversize chunks of well drilling apparatus.
In the past few months we have visited numerous abandoned sites that were once busy canneries, logging camps and gold mining towns. This area of British Columbia is the modern edition of those boom towns. There are many roadhouses with rows of portable housing lined up in the side lot. There weren’t many women to be seen, but lots of single men living in fairly primitive conditions who are probably making a lot of money.
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| Peace River, BC |
We left the main highway just north of Fort St John, and drove up the Peace River to the town of Hudson’s Hope. There were some beautiful views of the valley that is destined to be submerged under BC Hydro’s next mammoth dam. The river is huge. We have been continually surprised at the size of the rivers and lakes here in the north. Most of them are rivers we have never heard of before, that are larger than most rivers we have ever seen. All these rivers we have seen the last few days end up in the Mackenzie, which must be one big river.
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| Aspen Trees, Alwin Holland Park, Hudson's Hope, BC |
An unexpected development was the appearance of Mountain Daylight Time, which made the evenings lighter. The decrease in the length of the days has been very noticeable as we drive south. We spent the night at a campground just south of town on the river. It was near the end of the Peace River Canyon, and the water was moving very swiftly past tall cliffs of Cretaceous sedimentary rock. There was only one other camper there.
On Tuesday morning we stopped at the visitors’ center for the dam on the river. They have two dams on the Peace, one among the largest in the world, and it produces a huge amount of electricity. The displays were in four categories. One was about the construction of the dam, which involved moving massive turbines that couldn’t move on highways, from ships in Vancouver to this rather remote location. The second category was about all of the dinosaur footprints and mammoth skeletons that had been submerged by the dam. The third was unfettered boosterism about how man had improved the Peace River area by discovering and making use of God’s gifts (i.e. dams, mining, logging and agriculture.) The fourth was models of early 20th century farming buildings and equipment, that they inherited from some local defunct museum. They had an annoying habit of using the word “replica” when they meant “model.” I know, picky, picky.
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| Chainsaw Sculpture, Chetwynd, BC |
At any rate, we left Hudson’s Hope for points south. The country is considerably more civilized and populated as we travel along. We stopped and spent quite some time in the town of Chetwynd. They have a chain saw sculpture contest each year. Invited artists come from around the world, and the really remarkable sculptures are displayed around town. Asking around we found that the best coffee shop in town was in the library, and we spent some time chatting with the woman who ran it. You can begin to see why it takes us so long to get anywhere.
Having crossed back over to the east side of the Rocky Mountains a couple of days ago, we now went back across them to the west side. There aren’t a lot of choices in roads up here, so you just follow wherever they lead. We saw a caribou on this stretch of road. It took us a while to figure out what it was. This led us south to the sizable city of Prince George. In addition to a lot of traffic and a grocery store, it also provided a place to have the oil changed in the van. By great good luck, the Yankees – Blue Jays game was on the TV. It hasn’t been a great year for the Yankees, but they’re not out of it yet, and they scored four runs in the first inning. It’s interesting that all of Canada seems to follow the Toronto Blue Jays, even though they are thousands of miles away, and most people out here dislike the city of Toronto. I would expect people in British Columbia to root for the Seattle Mariners, but they don’t. Very patriotic I suppose.
We drove east out of Prince George toward Jasper, and camped at Purden Lake Provincial Park. This is not exactly the shortest route home, but we have decided not to spend any time at our cottage in Nanaimo. We need to get Toucan back to Melissa, I need to see an orthopedic surgeon about my knee, we want to see Derek, Elizabeth and Rowan in Wilsonville, and we are generally anxious to get back to Ashland, which we haven’t seen since April. On the other hand, we have driven up and down Interstate 5 so often, that we want to avoid that, especially the bit through Seattle.
If we drove straight south, we would end up in Vancouver and Seattle, so we are bending east to come at Portland from that direction instead. We haven’t yet had our fill of spectacular scenery, so we are headed to Jasper and Banff, and then south from there.
Wednesday morning we got off to our usual early start by taking the dogs on a walk to the lake, so they could chase sticks in the water. Dog exercise always consumes part of each day, and Toucan is especially in need of water. He becomes distraught when we drive past a body of water without stopping. The drive up to Jasper follows the valley of the Fraser River, but there is no sign of the river from the road. The road is a rather tedious drive through the forest with little signs of civilization.
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| Train Station, McBride, BC |
We stopped at McBride, the one town along the way. The railroad station contained the visitor center, a coffee shop, and an art gallery. We managed to leave some money at all three of those establishments. We also walked the dogs, went grocery shopping, ate a picnic lunch at the park, and generally managed to make little progress toward home.
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| Train Station, Jasper, AB |
The scenery eventually changed from tedious forest to craggy mountains as we passed through Mt Robson Park, and over Yellowhead Pass into Alberta and Jasper National Park. We found a campsite south of town, took showers, and went into town for dinner. Jasper is an interesting combination of a cute tourist town populated with employees of the railroad, as long freight trains hauling coal and wheat to Prince Rupert for export rumble through the center of town past the shops and restaurants.
We did a quick search on TripAdvisor and chose a place to eat. Of course they had no available tables, but we were happy to eat at the bar. This provided access to the personable and entertaining barkeeper, and also sat us next to a couple visiting from England, so we had interesting dinner conversation. The food was wonderful. The bill will send us back to camp cooking. On the way out of town we saw a herd of about a dozen elk roaming the streets. Ashland gets upset about deer in town, imagine what a herd of elk can do to your garden!
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| Athabasca River from Old Fort Point Near Jasper, AB |
Thursday, August 29 was spent dawdling our way south into Banff National Park. We began by taking a several hour hike up a hill south of town. It was the most exercise that we and the dogs have had for several days, and we all needed it. It provided wonderful vistas of the Athabasca River valley and the surrounding peaks. We walked past some very attractive cabins, and talked to a woman who was staying in one of them with her daughter. She is from Edmonton, but originally from Austria, and she so much enjoys coming up here from the prairie, as it reminds her of home.
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| Jeanie, Schooner & Toucan, Old Fort Point, Jasper, AB, Aug 2013 |
We ate some lunch along the river, and then made a leisurely drive down the Icefields Highway, stopping often to admire the views and take some photos. This is a place that can give Alaska a run for its money in the scenery department. It has the mountains, the forests, the glaciers and the lakes, but is a bit short on salt water. It is also a place packed with tourists from all over the world. The campground we were headed for turned out to be closed for some unknown reason, so we drove a bit more and settled into a camp with the inauspicious name Mosquito Creek. Fortunately it did not live up to its name.
into Idaho and across Oregon from the east.
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| Sunwapta Falls, Jasper Natl Park, AB |
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| Sunwapta River, Jasper Natl Park, AB |
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| Glacier, Jasper Natl Park, AB |
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| Icefields Parkway, Banff Natl Park, AB |
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| Icefields Parkway, Banff Natl Park, AB |
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